The restaurants we watch

The Eiffel Tower’s restaurant: full within hours of opening.

The starred bistro on rue de Charonne: tables go in minutes.

Three stars above the Mediterranean; the monthly opening is stormed.

The bistro on rue de l’Université: full almost every day across its three-week calendar.

The bistro on rue Chapon, in the Marais: full almost every day, bar last-minute cancellations.

The bistro on rue des Tournelles, evenings only: a month of calendar, almost entirely booked.

Mory Sacko’s starred restaurant on rue Raymond-Losserand: four guests at most online, and hardly a free seat.

The restaurant on rue du Nil, evenings only: a calendar open three months ahead, and a first sitting full almost every night.

Hugo Roellinger’s restaurant facing the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel: every lunch and every dinner full weeks ahead, waiting list open.

French cooking by a Japanese chef, the most sought-after table in Lyon: dinner full almost every night of the coming month.

Philippe Etchebest’s fine-dining restaurant, a small room and a single menu: Saturday dinners full weeks ahead.

Alexandre Gauthier’s restaurant on the banks of the Canche: most weekends full several weeks ahead.

Arnaud Lallement’s three-star restaurant on the edge of Reims: Thursday to Saturday dinners full, a calendar open almost a year ahead.

Kazuyuki Tanaka’s room of some fifteen seats: almost every dinner of the coming month full.

The restaurant of Les Sources de Caudalie, among the Graves vineyards: end-of-week dinners full, with seats freeing up regularly.

Dinner, planetarium and a night at 2,877 m, sunrise over the Pyrenees: twenty-seven guests a night, and double rooms booked up more than a year ahead.